By Ágnes Németh

As we wrote earlier, Heumann Winery from Villány has recently released two white wines made of black grapes. Back then we relied on the information received from the winery, but meanwhile I could taste Blue–White, the white Kékfrankos. In the title I quote Michael Jackson, “no matter if it’s black or white”, with reason. Obviously, he was singing about skin colours, while I am speaking about grape skin colours, but I can honestly say that in case of Heumann Winery and Kékfrankos, the colour does not matter, the wine is excellent for sure.

Vince magazine wine review

In the latest issue of Vince wine magazine, Heumann Blue – White ranks among the top of the new releases with 4 stars and 16.20 scores (out of 20). The description is the following: “Light greenish colour with the hue of sunrise. Quite intense nose with white flesh fruits but it also has some red fruit character, mainly with redcurrant notes and a pinch of spices. When tasting, it is full bodied, absolutely rich and juicy with ripened peach, apple and vibrant acidity.”

Tasting note by Adrian van Velsen Swiss wine writer

“Pale rose gold; restrained aroma of grapefruit, red currants, and white flowers; gripping on the palate, juicy, incredible crisp fruit, well balanced acidity, the wine has a fresh and fruity finish. A successful Blanc-de-Noir, where every sip makes you want the next one.” (88 points)

How was is made?

Kékfrankos (in the neighbouring Austria it is called Blaufränkisch) is the most planted black grape of Hungary, an indigenous grape with a potential to give fruit drivel, elegant wines appealing to the wine connoisseurs of today. Just like in case of Merlot Bianco, the other “blanc de noir”, the winery uses the same grape for the white as they use for their top reds. The parcels of Kékfrankos vines are also located in Városhegy vineyard. Harvest took place on 21 August. The grape was destemmed, immediately pressed, and the alcoholic fermentation took place in temperature controlled stainless-steel tanks at 16° C, there was no malolactic fermentation. It was bottled on 6 February, 2025.
Alcohol: 13.5%, acidity: 6.1 g/l, residual sugar: 1.7 g/l.
More about Heumann Winery

What can I add?

For me the elegance was that enchanted me right at the beginning. The wine has balance, the “red-wine-ish” tones are so subtle, so restrained, they are somewhere in the background, the result is more of a unique wine with creamy texture, complexity and also lively acidity. Well done! Perfect for a summer evening, we had some cheese and figs with it – it was a majestic feast!

Heumann wines are available in several countries, for example in the United Kingdom at Novel Wine. In Belgium at QWine, in Switzerland at Heumann Weine, Cave Gevin, Hunderweinhaus, Le Bouchon Vinothek and at Vinebration.

A recent article of us about Heumann La Trinità 2019, the Villányi Franc of the estate receiving 93 points from Markus del Monego german Master of Wine

Another 93 points to Heumann La Trinità 2019

Merlot Bianco & Blue-White

The rosé boom has come to a halt, red wine consumption is decreasing – so how can a red dominated wine region survive? Some wineries plant more white varieties, as we have written recently, while Erhard and Evelyne Heumann have come up with a bolder idea: let’s make white wine of what we have! The solution is somehow obvious from a German–Swiss couple, since white Merlot has special importance in the Italian speaking part of Switzerland. Apart from Merlot Bianco, the Heumanns have released Blue-White as well, a white wine made of Hungary’s flagship black grape, Kékfrankos. “A successful Blanc-de-Noir, where every sip makes you want the next one.” (Adrian van Velsen)

Heumann Merlot Bianco 2024

Heumann Winery has always been famous for making brilliant Riesling wines, due the location of their vineyards in the Siklós sub-region of Villány wine region. Here the soil mainly consists of loess with high proportion of limestone. The new white Merlot is made of the same Merlot they use for the red wine, from Városhegy vineyard in Siklós, with 20-year-old vines, with a yield of only 40 hl / hectare. Harvest took place on 22 August.
The grape was destemmed, immediately pressed, and the alcoholic fermentation took place in temperature controlled stainless-steel tanks at 16° C. In spite of the practice in the Swiss white Merlot region, Ticino, there was no malolactic fermentation. The wine was kept on fine yeast for 4 months. It was bottled on 5 February, 2025.
Alcohol: 13.5%, acidity: 5.7 g/l, residual sugar: 2.7 g/l.
Tasting note: Pale colour. Intense flavours of red fruit and cassis. Fruity lemon acidity, well integrated in the creamy body. Very spicy. Long lasting.

Heumann Blue-White 2024

Kékfrankos (in the neighbouring Austria it is called Blaufränkisch) is the most planted black grape of Hungary, an indigenous grape with a potential to give fruit drivel, elegant wines appealing to the wine connoisseurs of today. Just like in case of Merlot Bianco, the winery uses the same grape for the white as they use for the red Kékfrankos.
The parcels of Kékfrankos vines are also located in Városhegy vineyard. Harvest took place on 21 August.
As in case of Merlot Bianco, the grape was destemmed, immediately pressed, and the alcoholic fermentation took place in temperature controlled stainless-steel tanks at 16° C, there was no malolactic fermentation. It was bottled on 6 February, 2025.
Alcohol: 13.5%, acidity: 6.1 g/l, residual sugar: 1.7 g/l.
Tasting note by Adrian van Velsen Swiss wine writer:
“Pale rose gold; restrained aroma of grapefruit, red currants, and white flowers; gripping on the palate, juicy, incredible crisp fruit, well balanced acidity, the wine has a fresh and fruity finish. A successful Blanc-de-Noir, where every sip makes you want the next one. (88 points)”

More about Heumann Winery

A wine in “incognito”

Andrea Lemieux wine writer, the owner of The Quirky Cork is not the only one tricked by Incognito, a white wine by Lajver Wine House in Szekszárd wine region. We tasted the first vintage last year with a team of wine writers, we were impressed, and the second vintage is even more impressing! But let us quote Andrea’s opinion, who visited Lajver Wine Estate with as one of the winners of our 4th Hungarian WebWineWriting contest.

“A blanc de noir made from 100% Kékfrankos, the Incognito (great name, no?!) was made via direct press, cold-fermented in a stainless steel, and finally passed through charcoal to remove any pinkness. The resulting wine was so pale as to resemble water! Passing wine through charcoal can often strip not just color but also aromas and flavors…that was not at all the case here.

Had I been blind-folded I would have sworn I had a rosé in my glass. Lightly perfumed with aromas of watermelon rind and cherries with a sprinkle of herby green. Fresh and bright on the palate with summer red fruits and white mulberries. Super quaffable and only 12% abv. And I wouldn’t have believed it had I not tried it, but it complimented the soup so well!”

Creative cuisine

Where should a true wine writer celebrate her birthday? In a winery, of course, as it happened to Andrea Lemieux on the 18th of August. Thank to the chef of Lajver, the birthday dinner was unforgettable, the above mentioned curried sweet potato soup with venison meatballs for example was liquid pleasure, a masterpiece full of flavours. And when it came to the “decadent dessert” – a mouth watering red wine poached pear with English cream, Andrea received her plate with a candle…

Read the whole article by Andrea Lemieux

More about Lajver wines

Lajver Gastronomy: Lajver Wine Bistro can offer wine tastings with home made spreads, salty pastries, and with revious appointment the kitchen offers complete wine dinners as well.

For more more details contact Tímea Tóth