Volcanic Wines on WinaWulkaniczne.pl

If you love the minerality of the volcanic wines, if you have ever tasted the unmistakable “Somló character” and if you live in Poland, we have good news: a wide range of wines are available from the award winning, bottle fermented Fehérvári sparkling wines through Tornai sweet Zenit to Csetvei RAW/KA Juhfark natural wine.

WinaWulkaniczne.pl is a webshop specialized in volcanic wines from a few countries with the main focus in Hungary. From our country Tokaj and Sopron are also represented for example by Zsirai Winery and Steigler Cellar, but the most products come from a “triangle” of Balaton broader region: Somló, Sümeg and Ság-hill.

The person behind WinaWulkaniczne (and co-owner) is Bartosz Makles, a passionate wine expert, who also writes regularly for Trybuszon Polish wine magazine and provides samples for panel tastings of the magazine. As he commented, “so far there were Juhfark panels, Hungarian endemics (Góhér, Sárfehér, Kéknyelű, Irsai) and volcanic reds from Hungary”.
Bartosz Makles has been to Hungary several times, for example in a recent study tour in Sopron and he also judged at Winelovers Wine Awards in July 2023 in Budapest. As Bartosz explained, he has several private clients who already know and love Hungarian wines, and in the new year he hopes to grow and get B2B clients as well.

See the wine selection of WinaWulkaniczne.pl from Somló wine region

Award winning still and sparkling wines from Fehérvári Wine Estate

The most represented winery on WinaWulkaniczne.pl is undoubtedly Fehérvári Estate with 10 products. If you want to celebrate New Year’s Eve with Hungarian bubbles, it will not be easy to choose between the VinAgora Champion award winner Fehérvári Brut Reserve (made of Furmint, Hárslevelű, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay), the Mundus Vini gold winner Fehérvári Somlói Brut Nature Furmint 2020 or the charming Fehérvári Rosé Brute Reserve which also contains Furmint and Hárslevelű besides the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The estate also has nice selection of still wines including the Mundus Vini gold winner Fehérvári Juhfark Grand Reserve 2021.

More about Fehérvári Wine Estate

Fehérvári Wine Estate website

Did you know that this unique, Hungarian grape variety got almost extinct in the 1990s? There were only 2 hectares left, but thanks to some devoted winemakers, now Kéknyelű grows on 43 hectares. Let us share some lesser known facts about this variety, and we will recommend a stunning Kéknyelű wine from the Winemaker of the Year 2020!
(The cover photo is taken by Norbert Varga, his photos are available on canvas as well.)

Borbély Kéknyelű Selection 2018 – complex and gracious

 

The characteristics of the variety are nearly identical with those of the salty-mineral tones of the basalt of the terroir. These notes are finely spiced with the signs of 7 months of oak ageing. Distinct minerality, vibrant acidity, perfect balance. Due to its high potassium content the wine has health benefits. Despite the oaky tones, the wine retains the subtle character of Kéknyelű, sleek and elegant, flowery and harmonious.

More about Borbély Family Winery

Some curiosities about Kéknyelű grape

– This grape is exclusively grown in Badacsony wine region. The above mentioned 43 hectares are all in volcanic Badacsony region on the north shore of Lake Balaton. There is a minor amount (1 hectare) in Balaton Upland wine region and an even smaller amount (0.5 hectare) in Balatonfüred–Csopak wine region (data from 2020 by HNT).

– It is a “female only” grape, thus planting alternate rows with a variety such as Budai Zöld encourages more consistent pollination. Nowadays there is this hybrid of Kéknyelű and Budai Zöld called Rózsakő, also a hermaphrodite. Its ability as a pollinator is far superior to that of Budai Zöld.

– Kéknyelű is quite likely of Hungarian origin, probably it is from Badacsony.

– Animals love it! It ripens relatively late, therefore it needs protection from the hungry games living in the forests of Badacsony and Szent György mountain.

– Kéknyelű means ‘blue stalk’ and refers to the slightly blue tint of the petiole.

– It was believed to be identical with Italian Picolit, but DNA tests proved they are two different grapes with no relation.

– In good vintages it gives elegant wine with creamy structure and subtle, fine acidity. Rare grape variety that is capable of giving exceptionally high quality wines.

– “I believe that this is the only grape in Hungary, maybe even on the planet, that is able to come close to or reach Riesling in terms of elegance, freshness and quality acidity. Kéknyelű usually has high acidity, even higher than Riesling or Furmint when there is no heat or drought stress. And also, it rarely gets too ripe.” Ambrus Bakó, winemaker (Interview on Wine Virtuosity)

Villa Sandahl is a really peculiar winery.

– First of all it is in Hungary, but owned by two Swedish brothers. So what? It is not so unique, okay, there are several estates in every country owned by foreigners. All right, but:

– They grow only one grape variety in their whole estate: it is Rhine Riesling. The circle is smaller, isn’t it?

– Plus, they make their wines so rigorously, so precisely, even the pressings are divided into different fractions – read more here, at the wines –, so they create every wine with the absolute precision.

– The perfectionism is rewarding: Villa Sandahl has won the latest Hungarian Wine Grand Prix, which means that according to the Circle of Hungarian Wine writers, Villa Sandahl

Rabbit Periscope 2017 is the best white wine in Hungary. And at the end of last year the estate was awarded Par Excellence award by the Hungarian Sommelier Association.

See how your wine will mature

Browsing Villa Sandahl website, I came across this chart above. It shows how each of Villa Sandahl wines will evolve with time, and they are not afraid of telling the customers, that they should not keep the most inexpensive Shop Stop longer than 5-6 years, while the above mentioned Rabbit Periscope will become even better with time.

This is the explanation by Villa Sandahl:

“Here is a maturity graphs over our most recent vintages. With this, we want to answer the question: Why do you need to release so many wines, when the cheapest is really good enough? We claim the answer is: Yes, at bottling time this can be true, but they have very different potential, which the price reflects! Hope this is a good help for you when to select what you look after.“

Are you a wine nerd? Than you will find plenty of interesting facts on Villa Sandahl website!

More about Villa Sandahl