Wine & Food weeks and a hotel above the city

Sopron wine region started a joined restaurants & wineries campaign last year, and “Soproni Ízkavalkád”, the ‘Festivity of Flavours in Sopron’ has returned. Deák restaurant offers a wide selection of dishes paired with local wine, while the renewed Hotel Sopron promises relaxing stay, a great “house wine” and a stunning view of Sopron.
Background photo for the cover photo: Hotel Sopron.

10 great wines to remember #10

Zöldveltelini is not a typical grape for sparkling wines, at least not in Hungary. However, if you cross the western border, you will find tons of great examples of Grüner Veltliner (the German name of Zöldveltelini) in Austria. Steigler Extra Brut comes from Sopron, this side of that border, from the organic Steigler Cellar. Refreshing, elegant, expressing the variety with outmost balance.

Steigler Extra Brut 2023

Steigler sparkling is not brut nature, since the residual sugar is slightly above the allowed 3 g/l, it is 3.3 g/l, 12 months on the lees, subtle yeast, but plenty of juicy fruits, especially citrus fruits and above all enchanting floral notes, as if you were lying in the middle of a spring meadow, under a blooming tree.

See Steigler Extra Brut on the winery webshop

More about Steigler Cellar

Report about our latest visit at Steigler Cellar

“What we do is controlled idleness”

22 categories and special awards

The annual awards of Vince wine magazine and wine club were given out on 8 November at Vince Gala event at the Museum of Fine Arts in Budapest. First the team and trustworthy experts of the magazine nominated three wines in each category – partially based on the monthly panel tastings –, and then the readers could vote for their favourite ones. Congratulations to the winners!
See the full list of winners below the photo.

The winner wines from our cover photo:

– Kovács Nimród Battonage Chardonnay 2023
– Pannonhalmi Főapátság Infusio 2022
– Heimann és Fiai “Piros” Siller 2024
– Steigler Pet-Nat Zöld Veltelini 2024

An impressive ZV line-up at Steigler Cellar in Sopron

Though being a chief winemaker is far from “dolce far niente” aka “sweet idleness”, it is easy to understand what it may mean in an organic wine estate. As Tamás Varga, chief winemaker of Steigler Cellar explained, they do as little as possible – until the must ferments. Then comes the playful part, like making white wine of black grape, adding a handful of fine lees to a barrel or blending varieties that have never been blended.

By Ágnes Németh

Steigler Cellar came into the Hungarian wine scene less than a decade ago, but they became rapidly successful. The owner, Bálint Lőrinczy is a gentleman with vision, who follows family traditions with being a “poncichter”, a grape grower in Sopron. Tamás Varga is a winemaker of great experience (Austria, California and New Zealand) and with endless ideas and experimental spirit.
“It is the only cellar in the world which is underground when you enter, but then you leave up on the floor” – commented Tamás as he took us around in the tiny cellar in the heart of Sopron. Though I doubt the uniqueness in this regard, it is obviously cool to have a functioning wine cellar in the heart of city, especially with those tricky steps and tunnels.
It was my second visit, first I took foreign wine experts including Pasi Ketolainen MW and other highnesses, back then I was the organizer, I paid more attention to the wellbeing of the prestigious guests. But now it was more of a private visit with my sister, brother and my sister-in-law. Tamás was back then and now again simply irresistible. Funny, witty, generous with the tasting portions, and only as professional as it was needed – in other words, he is great to talk to wine lovers of any level, even with less background knowledge.

Method traditional sparkling of Zöldveltelini

By Ágnes Németh

Zöldveltelini is not a typical grape for sparkling wines, at least not in Hungary. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir are abundant, along with Furmint, our local hero. However, if you cross the western border, you will find tons of great examples of Grüner Veltliner (the German name of Zöldveltelini) in Austria. Now, with Steigler Extra Brut, we can also be pride of a bubbly: refreshing, elegant, expressing the variety with outmost balance.

Recently I have had the chance to taste the new release bottle fermented sparkling wine of the organic Steigler Cellar from Sopron. Well, it has already been on the shelves for a while, but I live in Spain and do not come so frequently to my home country. My Spanish second home happens to be in the centre of the Spanish (mainly Catalan) sparkling wine production, and over there, the majority of sparkling wine consumed is brut nature. In the Mediterranean climate it is easy to make adorable sparkling wines any dosage, but it is not easy to find good examples from northern countries.

Flowers all over

Steigler sparkling is not brut nature, since the residual sugar is slightly above the allowed 3 g/l, it is 3.3 g/l, yet, for me it was a revelation and a great pleasure to discover this wine. The truth is that I “run with sparkling wine”, this is how my engine functions, and since I am so used to super dry sparkling wines, I was struggling, even though there were around hundred wines at the event I worked at last weekend. (It was Winelovers Wine Awards, as the glass suggests…) Some of the sparkling wines were brut nature or extra brut, but my favourite was Steigler with its ethereal character. 12 months on the lees, subtle yeast, but plenty of juicy fruits, especially citrus fruits and above all enchanting floral notes, as if you were lying in the middle of a spring meadow, under a blooming tree. Congrats!

See Steigler Extra Brut on the winery webshop

Vince Award 2024 in 22 categories

Vince wine magazine has an annual award to acknowledge the best Hungarian wines in 22 different categories. Wine connoisseurs can vote for a few more days – until the 10th of November, and the award ceremony will take place on the 16th of November in Budapest, at Vince Gala,  in the Museum of Fine Arts. Some of the nominees are featured in our cover photo – they all deserve to win!

Easy to vote

The list of the nominees were created by the staff and regular tasters of Vince magazin. The voting platform is in Hungarian, but here we are to help you.
– First of all click here.
– Then click the little box at the bottom to accept the terms of use.
– Click ont he box ’SZAVAZOK’ at the bottom (it means ’I VOTE’)
– To go tot he next page click on ’KÖVETKEZŐ’, to go back click on ’ELŐZŐ’.
– At the end you should provide your email address and click on ’ELKÜLDÉS’ (meaning ’SENDING’)

See the translation of each category here:

1. Light white wine made of international grape variety
2. Light white wine made of an important grape of the Carpathian Basin
3. Light white wine made of other grape variety
4. Light white blend
5. Barrel aged white wine made of international grape variety
6. Barrel aged white wine made of an important grape of the Carpathian Basin
7. Barrel aged white wine made of other grape variety
8. Barrel aged white blend
9. Light red wine made of international grape variety
10. Light red wine made of a grape of the Carpathian Basin
11. Light red wine blend
12. Barrel aged red wine made of international grape variety
13. Barrel aged red wine made of an important grape of the Carpathian Basin
14. Barrel aged red wine made of other grape variety
15. Bikavér (Egri Bikavér or Szekszárdi Bikavér)
16. Barrel aged red blend
17. Rosé, Siller
18. Natural wine or sparkling wine
19. Charmat method or aerated sparkling wine
20. Traditional method sparkling wine
21. Late harvest wine
22. Tokaji Aszú

More information about the protagonists of our cover photo

Eszterbauer Nagyapám Kadarka, Szekszárd
Etyeki Kúria Pinot Noir 2021, Etyek
Kovács Nimród Battonage Chardonnay 2022, Eger
Pannonhalma Archabbey Prior 2023, Pannonhalma
Steigler Bio Zöldveltelíni 2023, Sopron
Vesztergombi Merlot 2021, Szekszárd
Vylyan Csóka Variáció 2019, Villány

https://www.vylyan.hu/en/estate/wines/variation-wines/

Sopron Wine Festivity has begun!

The 3-day festival starts today, the historic town centre of the capital of our most western wine region will be vibrant and full of music. Sopron wine producers will pour their latest vintage Zöldveltelini (Grüner Veltliner), Irsai Olivér and other white wines, and certainly the iconic red of Sopron, Kékfrankos will be available at the 22 winemakers as well – including Taschner estate led by Kurt István Taschner in the cover photo.

Find more about the event below.

Taschner wines – a range for every palate

The family vineyard is of 26 hectares, where mostly indigenous (Austro–Hungarian) grapes are grown: Kékfrankos (black), Zweigelt (black) and Zöldveltelini (Grüner Veltliner) (white). Have you heard of Frühroter Veltliner? Don’t worry, we haven’t heard of it either B.T. (Before Taschner). He also grows grapes that are known only in Hungary – though here they are very popular. The aromatic white Irsai Olivér is a good example. In cooler climate Irsai can be fresh, crispy, not overwhelmingly aromatic – this is the case with Kurt’s Irsai Olivér, which usually wins gold at the national “New Vintage” contest, and it is often the very first release of the new vintage in Hungary.

The slightly cool climate and the soil of lime stone is perfectly suitable for making traditional method sparkling wines. Taschner Brut is made only in exceptional vintages with base wine made of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The bottle in the cover photo above  is Taschner Pinot Noir sparkling wine. He also makes red wine of international grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, what is more, he is one of the few winemakers who bottles in mini bottles (0.18 L). If you fly with Wizzair, you can taste his still Chardonnay on board (the label is quite French-like, but don’t let yourself be deceived). He makes natural sweet wine as well, made of the indigenous Zenit variety. Moreover, the icing on the cake: enjoy a strong but delicious ‘pálinka’ (our national, origin protected spirit) made of 100% grapes, like Irsai. You can try all in Sopron at Sopron Wine Festivity this weekend, until 22.00 on Sunday.

Sopron Wine Festivity

Sopron is a gorgeous town worth visiting any time of the year, but this weekend there will be more than 20 reasons to spend some days in Sopron. More than 20 wineries pour their wines in the historic town centre, the entrance is free and there are children programs, concerts provided. Sopron is only an hour by train from Vienna!

When: 31 May – 2 June, the wine booths are open from 17.00–23.00 (on Sunday only until 22.00).
Where: in 4 locations in the historic centre, start your experience in Fő tér (Main square)
Entrance is free, guests pay for the wines they consume. Wine glass is needed to be bought, though participants can bring their own glasses if they prefer.
A cute extra: Hungarian Post is a sponsor of the event, and at their wooden booth participants can send special Sopron Wine Festivity postcards to their loved one. Domestic stamps are gratis.
Exhibitors: 22 wineries of Sopron Wine Route Association
Watch a short video about the last year’s edition to get a glimpse of the atmosphere of the event

More about Taschner Winery and Sparkling Wine Cellar

Celebrate Soproni Kékfrankos!

Sopron is a gorgeous town worth visiting any time of the year, but this weekend there will be more than 20 reasons to spend some days in Sopron. More than 20 wineries pour their wines in the historic town centre, the entrance is free and there are children programs, concerts provided. Sopron is only an hour by train from Vienna!

When: 31 May – 2 June, the wine booths are open from 17.00–23.00 (on Sunday only until 22.00).
Where: in 4 locations in the historic centre, start your experience in Fő tér (Main square)
Entrance is free, guests pay for the wines they consume. Wine glass is needed to be bought, though participants can bring their own glasses if they prefer.
A cute extra: Hungarian Post is a sponsor of the event, and at their wooden booth participants can send special Sopron Wine Festivity postcards to their loved one. Domestic stamps are gratis.
Exhibitors: 22 wineries of Sopron Wine Route Association

Wine of the Week

Grüner Veltliner is mostly known as one of the best white Austrian grape variety however, “GrüVe” can give great wines on the other side of the border, in Hungary as well. Sopron wine region on the west of Hungary has a unique climate and soil structure, and the grape also has its tradition here. Steigler is an organic winery with outstanding wines – as it was also proved at the last edition of Winelovers Wine Awards.

A serious wine competition

Winelovers Wine Awards international wine competition, held for the second time in July 2023, attracted wines from 14 countries. The jury comprising 65 wine experts and winemakers represented 19 countries and included several Masters of Wine and one Master Sommelier evaluating 839 wines. (I–Ágnes Németh, the editor of Hungarianwines.eu–was also involved in this international wine contest organized in Budapest for the second time. My duty was to invite and take care of the foreign jury members–therefore I have first-hand experience of the expertise of the jury.)

The list of jury members can be seen here.
See the full list of results here.

Crispy, zesty, easy

Organic farming, Guyot training system, yield: 8000 kg/ha. Fermentation in stainless steel tank at low temperature, ageing in stainless steel tank on fine lees for 6 months. “A lighter, more easy going Zöldveltelini (Grüner Veltliner) from Steigler Cellar with vivid greenish yellow colour and amazingly fresh nose – mainly with grapefruit, lime and fresh green herbs. The crispy acidity and the subtle carbon dioxide makes the wine even more refreshing and zesty.”

More about Steigler Cellar

Have you not heard about Grüner Veltliner / Zöldveltelini?

In Hungary in 2022 there were 1237 hectares under vines of the variety–much more than for example Juhfark, the flagship grape of Somló with only 145 hectares. In Sopron wine region with its 98 hectares Grüner Veltliner–in Hungarian Zöldveltelini–is the most planted white grape.
As mentioned earlier, Grüner Veltelini is a top quality, versatile white grape in Austria, there are more than 17 000 hectares unter the variety. The Czech Republic and Slovakia also have significant amount along with Hungary. There is a small amount in the US, in Canada, Australia and New Zealand.
As for the origin of Grüner Veltliner, we can find the following in the book called Wine Grapes: “The earliest mention of Grüner Veltliner dates back to the eighteenth century. Despite its name, Grüner Veltliner has no link with Valtellina. Recent DNA profiling unexpectedly uncovered the parentage of Grüner Veltliner: it is a natural cross between Traminer (SAVAGNIN) and, very likely, an obscure vine found in St Georgen am Leithagebirge near Eisenstadt (Regner 2007). This old vine has a unique DNA profile and is currently the only known survivor of this variety.”
Excerpt From: Robinson, Jancis; Harding, Julia; Vouillamoz, Jose. “Wine Grapes (9780062325518)”. Apple Books.

Refreshment for a hot May day

Charming and refreshing aromas of green apple, citrus, white flowers and other tropical fruits with the spiciness of white pepper – these are the most typical of Grüner Veltliner grape variety, well known in Austria, but also popular in some wine regions of Hungary. In our country we call it “Zöldveltelini”, az “zöld” means green just like “grüner” in the German name.

Tűzkő Estate in Tolna wine region makes superb juicy Gruner Veltliner: “Produced on the hills of Mőcsény, well known for the fragrance and the ripe character that gives to wines. Fermentation in stainless steel followed by a short maturation in bottle.
Fresh and crisp acidity, good structure and complexity with fine citrus and floral notes. Goes well with appetizers, fish soup and pasta.”

If you happen to stay in Hungary, the easiest is to order the wine from Tűzkő webshop for only 1390 HUF / bottle (3.6 euros).

More about Tűzkő Estate

Tűzkő Estate

Tűzkő webshop

Tűzkő wines are available in several countries:

Importers: The Netherlands (Activin B.V.), Belgium (Drankenservice Vandermolen – Vanko bvba), Germany (Xaver Troiber e.k. ; Weinland Ariane Abayan GmbH ), Poland (LAUBEL – Peter Illesy), Switzerland (Globalwein AG – Philipp Reher), Taiwan (European Consumer Product Trading Co. Ltd.), Canada (Mark Anthony Brands), USA (Hemispheres LLC), Israel (Havit Hungarit), Italy (Marchesi Antinori S.p.A)