The strict judges

Circle of Hungarian Wine Writers was founded in 2016, the editor of this site (Ágnes Németh) is a founder as well. The aim of the Circle is to protect fair writers and media and act together when some unfair behaviour appears. The winewriters work to maintain and improve quality winewriting, discuss topics of professional terms of wine description, organize professional trips, conferences. Hungarian Wine Grand Prix has been organized since the foundation. The selection begins with the nomination period: the winewriters nominate wines individually to create a list of 12 white and 12 red wines in several nomination rounds. The wines should be from the last 5 vintages, „meet the highest consumers’ requirements and international standards”. The 24 nominated wines are tasted twice by two commitees. This year most of the wines came from Eger (6), Tokaj (4) and Szekszárd (3). 5 wineries have been selected every year for the ’Super 12’ lists, these are: Balla Géza (Wine Princess), Holdvölgy, Kovács Nimród Winery, St. Andrea, Thummerer Winery.

The winners of the 3rd Hungarian Wine Grand Prix

• Tóth Ferenc Egri Leányka Superior 2016, Eger

„Golden colour wine moving fresh and young in the glass. Late harvest characteristic on the nose; quince, dried apricot, peeled apple and dates. Its very exciting character shows off on the palate as well. Same fruits as on the nose however the dominant acids overwrite the sweetish taste. However, at the background we feel the gentle stroking of alcohol sweetness complemented by vanilla flavour in the aftertaste. Very long finish.”

• Luka Enikő Kékfrankos 2015, Sopron

The flagship wine of the variety, the grape comes from Steiner vineyard. As Enikő Luka, the owner and winemaker says: 2018 was the Year of Kékfrankos, but for us every year is the year of this variety”. Sour cherry and cherry notes with a gentle touch of oak.

The ’Super 12’ list of white wines (in alphabetical order)  

• Dobosi Winery Háromszög Olaszrizling 2016, Balatonfüred–Csopak
• Figula Winery Száka Olaszrizling 2015, Balatonfüred–Csopak
• Gallay Artisan Cellar Pince Nyékládháza Zenit 2015, Bükk
• Holdvölgy Expression Tokaji Hárslevelű Becsek 2015, Tokaj
• Káli Kövek Rajnai Rizling Szentantalfa 2016, Balatonfüred–Csopak
• Kovács Nimród Winery Nagy-Eged Furmint 2015, Eger
• Pajzos Winery Tokaji Hárslevelű 2015, Tokaj
• Tokaj Nobilis Szőlőbirtok Barakonyi Furmint 2015, Tokaj
• Tornai Winery Top Selection Aranyhegy Juhfark 2016, Somló
• Tóth Ferenc Winery Egri Leányka Superior 2016, Eger
• Szászi Estate Badacsonyi Rózsakő 2017, Badacsony
• Szepsy Winery Úrágya Tokaji Furmint 2015, Tokaj

The ’Super 12’ list of red wines (in alphabetical order)

• Balla Géza Sziklabor Feketeleányka & Cabernet Franc 2015 (Ménes, Transylvania, Romania
• Bock Cellar Villányi Merlot Special Reserve 2013, Villány
• Eszterbauer WineryNagyapám Kadarka 2017, Szekszárd
• Gere Attila Winery Fekete Járdovány 2016, Villány
• Janos von Beőthy Csobánc-hegy Petit Rhone 2013, Badacsony
• Luka Winery Kékfrankos 2015, Sopron
• Mészáros Wine House Bodzási Kékfrankos Prémium 2015, Szekszárd
• Andrea Nagykadarka Nagy-Eged Grand Superior 2016, Eger
• Stumpf Winery Nagy-Eged Öregtőkék Kékfrankos 2015, Eger
• Schieber Winery Patina Cabernet Franc 2013, Szekszárd
• Tóth Ferenc Winery Kékfrankos Superior Tornyos 2013, Eger
• Thummerer Winery Egri Bikavér Grand Superior 2015, Eger

 

 

Contrast of textures

She started praising the interior and the main concept – „The room is light, airy and contemporary – all Scandi-style furniture, glass and open brickwork. Some 75% of the ingredients and furnishings, and all the wines come from Hungary” – (in fact a couple of wines are from a broader territorry, from the Carpathian Basin, including Serbia, Slovakia, Austria), then she points out the suprising fact that most wines in the degustation menu are white, quoting the words of sommelier Péter Blazsovszky: „Red wine is always the hero of the meal. White wines can show more facets and give you an enterily different perspective on the food.” She is most fascinated by the textures: „Apart from the original and cleverly judged juxtaposition of flavours on offer here, what was so striking was the contrasting textures. The signature dish of egg galuska (noodles) – a swoonworthy combitanition of spätzle topped with an airy cloud of truffle-infused foam – was followed, by way of refreshing contrast, by a silky but deeply savoury duck broth (which reminds you why consommé used to be considered such a delicacy), and then by a robustly smoky dish of octopus.”

Juhfark shines through

Fiona Beckett mentions two white wines accompanying the dishes. A weighty Juhfark from Somló wine region (by Spiegelberg Winery) „that was in no way diminished by the intensity of the food” and a Hárslevelű from Mád, Tokaj wine region by Kaláka Winery – „as a refreshing finale”. And the judgement? „I hesitate to award Babel a perfect score because nothing is ever perfect, but it’s hard to see what could be improved here.” The result is 9.5 points out of 10!

A different concept

Budapest has 4 Michelin star restaurants at the moment, and Babel is not among them, no one knows why. The restaurant is in a spectatcular square of Budapest, a few steps away from the river Danube. The staff is well trained and works smoothly, perfectly, and the food – well, Finoa Beckett’s words underline the efforts of the chefs, István Veres and Gábor Langer and of course the owner, Hubert Hlatky-Schlichter. If you check their website, you will be surprised by the main page: no images of elaborated plates or chairs and tables, just photos taken out in the nature, reflexing the purity of the ingredients and the philosophy.

A wine list of 140 wines

This massive list of great wines from mainly Hungary, some from the neighbouring countries (often from ex-Hungarian lands) will surely find the way to every palate. Some wines from the wine list we cordially recommend:

• Kovács Nimród Nagyegedi Furmint 2011

A rare wine to buy nowadays, a wonderful, complex Furmint from Eger, where it is not usual at all.

• Bott Frigyes Rajnai Riesling 2012, Muzsla, Slovakia

The Hungarian winemaker from just near the border makes unbelievable clean and layered Rhine Rieslings.

• Napholdcsillag, Csetvei Cellar, 2012, Mór

Small region, small winery, great wines: this blend of Chardonnay, Szürkebarát and Ezerjó is unforgettable!

• Zsirai Hárslevelű 2013, Mád, Tokaj region

Amazing subtlety, long-long finish – a stunning example of the grape Hársevelű.

• Mesterünk, Eszterbauer Winery, Szekszárd, 2012

Again a wine that is sold out, but you can taste in Babel! Cabernet Franc and Merlot blend from Szekszárd, only in the best vintages.

• Etyeki Kúria Pinot Noir, Etyek–Buda, 2012

We keep recommending to taste this Pinot, elegant and never-ending, it proves the potential of Etyek for the variety. The vintage available in shops is 2015.

• Thummerer Vili Papa Cuvée, Eger, 2006

The flagship wine of the winery (the name, ’Vili Papa’ meaning Uncle Willy refers to the owner called Vilmos (William) Thummerer. A 10 year old wine with still more potential!

• Attila, Gere Attila Winery, Villány, 2009

One of the three top wines of Gere Attila Winery, a barrel selection made of Bordeaux varieties.

• Kreinbacher Syrah, Somló 2011/2012

Again a wine that is hard to find. It proved to be so good, that both vintages are sold out, Babel has some bottles. (2013 is on sale now in shops)

• Luka Enikő Zweigelt, Sopron, 2013

Zweigelt is „the neighbours’ tool”, it feels good in Austria, but Hungary has only a few outstanging Zweigelt wines, this is one of them.

• Cuvée 7 Siklós Magnum, Sauska, Villány, 2011

A seamless Bordeaux blend from Siklós, in Villány wine region – and due to magnum aging even more refined.