Method traditional sparkling of Zöldveltelini

By Ágnes Németh

Zöldveltelini is not a typical grape for sparkling wines, at least not in Hungary. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir are abundant, along with Furmint, our local hero. However, if you cross the western border, you will find tons of great examples of Grüner Veltliner (the German name of Zöldveltelini) in Austria. Now, with Steigler Extra Brut, we can also be pride of a bubbly: refreshing, elegant, expressing the variety with outmost balance.

 

Recently I have had the chance to taste the new release bottle fermented sparkling wine of the organic Steigler Cellar from Sopron. Well, it has already been on the shelves for a while, but I live in Spain and do not come so frequently to my home country. My Spanish second home happens to be in the centre of the Spanish (mainly Catalan) sparkling wine production, and over there, the majority of sparkling wine consumed is brut nature. In the Mediterranean climate it is easy to make adorable sparkling wines any dosage, but it is not easy to find good examples from northern countries.

 

Flowers all over

Steigler sparkling is not brut nature, since the residual sugar is slightly above the allowed 3 g/l, it is 3.3 g/l, yet, for me it was a revelation and a great pleasure to discover this wine. The truth is that I “run with sparkling wine”, this is how my engine functions, and since I am so used to super dry sparkling wines, I was struggling, even though there were around hundred wines at the event I worked at last weekend. (It was Winelovers Wine Awards, as the glass suggests…) Some of the sparkling wines were brut nature or extra brut, but my favourite was Steigler with its ethereal character. 12 months on the lees, subtle yeast, but plenty of juicy fruits, especially citrus fruits and above all enchanting floral notes, as if you were lying in the middle of a spring meadow, under a blooming tree. Congrats!

See Steigler Extra Brut on the winery webshop

Sopron Wine Festivity has begun!

The 3-day festival starts today, the historic town centre of the capital of our most western wine region will be vibrant and full of music. Sopron wine producers will pour their latest vintage Zöldveltelini (Grüner Veltliner), Irsai Olivér and other white wines, and certainly the iconic red of Sopron, Kékfrankos will be available at the 22 winemakers as well – including Taschner estate led by Kurt István Taschner in the cover photo.

Find more about the event below.

Taschner wines – a range for every palate

The family vineyard is of 26 hectares, where mostly indigenous (Austro–Hungarian) grapes are grown: Kékfrankos (black), Zweigelt (black) and Zöldveltelini (Grüner Veltliner) (white). Have you heard of Frühroter Veltliner? Don’t worry, we haven’t heard of it either B.T. (Before Taschner). He also grows grapes that are known only in Hungary – though here they are very popular. The aromatic white Irsai Olivér is a good example. In cooler climate Irsai can be fresh, crispy, not overwhelmingly aromatic – this is the case with Kurt’s Irsai Olivér, which usually wins gold at the national “New Vintage” contest, and it is often the very first release of the new vintage in Hungary.

The slightly cool climate and the soil of lime stone is perfectly suitable for making traditional method sparkling wines. Taschner Brut is made only in exceptional vintages with base wine made of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The bottle in the cover photo above  is Taschner Pinot Noir sparkling wine. He also makes red wine of international grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, what is more, he is one of the few winemakers who bottles in mini bottles (0.18 L). If you fly with Wizzair, you can taste his still Chardonnay on board (the label is quite French-like, but don’t let yourself be deceived). He makes natural sweet wine as well, made of the indigenous Zenit variety. Moreover, the icing on the cake: enjoy a strong but delicious ‘pálinka’ (our national, origin protected spirit) made of 100% grapes, like Irsai. You can try all in Sopron at Sopron Wine Festivity this weekend, until 22.00 on Sunday.

Sopron Wine Festivity

Sopron is a gorgeous town worth visiting any time of the year, but this weekend there will be more than 20 reasons to spend some days in Sopron. More than 20 wineries pour their wines in the historic town centre, the entrance is free and there are children programs, concerts provided. Sopron is only an hour by train from Vienna!

When: 31 May – 2 June, the wine booths are open from 17.00–23.00 (on Sunday only until 22.00).
Where: in 4 locations in the historic centre, start your experience in Fő tér (Main square)
Entrance is free, guests pay for the wines they consume. Wine glass is needed to be bought, though participants can bring their own glasses if they prefer.
A cute extra: Hungarian Post is a sponsor of the event, and at their wooden booth participants can send special Sopron Wine Festivity postcards to their loved one. Domestic stamps are gratis.
Exhibitors: 22 wineries of Sopron Wine Route Association
Watch a short video about the last year’s edition to get a glimpse of the atmosphere of the event

More about Taschner Winery and Sparkling Wine Cellar

In the farthest west corner of Hungary, where the surface of Lake Fertő (Neusiedler in German) turns the most severe winters into mild ones, vineyards of great quality have given fruit since the Roman times. This is the region of Sopron, where Kurt Taschner, one of the most wellknown winemakers of the region makes his wines and méthode traditionnelle sparkling wines.

The family has half German and half Hungarian roots, and the tradition of winemaking has passed from fathers to sons, going back to as early as 1806. The recent, modern winery was founded in 1997 by Kurt and his father, they worked together until the father’s death. The next generation is also watching, no question: there will be someone to pass the estate over in the future.
The winery is equipped with all the up-to-date machinery, they produce 200.000 bottles a year, what is more, Taschner is among the few Hungarian wineries with the capacity to bottle in small (0.185 L) bottles, for example for Wizzair, the Hungarian airline.