There was an initiative to rename the traditional Tokaj style called Szamorodni. The name remained, what is more, it is trendier than ever. Barta Winery makes a superb example of the style in the village of Mád.

Barta Öreg Király Dűlő Szamorodni 2017

‘Öreg Király’ (‘Old King’) is the most precious vineyard of Barta estate, a steep, spectacular set of parcels. The perfect 2017 vintage saw partially-botrytised bunches of Furmint harvested from 3rd to 28th October, destemmed, and gently pressed after 4 hours of skin contact for this wine. After 24 hours of sedimentation, the juice was fermented in 15% new oak and 85% used oak, and then aged in the same barrels for 12 months, until bottling in January 2019.
Alcohol: 12.11%, acidity 7.07 g/L, residual sugar 133 g/L.
Price: 10 900 HUF from Barta webshop. 
Barta wines are available in several countries from Sweden to Hong Kong

What is Szamorodni?

From the Polish meaning ‘as it was grown’, or as it was shriveled on the vine. A traditional Tokaji wine made from bunches containing both healthy and botrytised grapes. It can be both sweet or dry.

Duck breast with Szamorodni

• If you are able to spare a little of the wine for the duck, it will make a huge difference. Cut the skinny surface of the duck breast a couple of times. Rub it with salt and pepper it and pour the wine onto it.
• You can add one orange cut into small cubes. Dried apricot will also do it. Leave it to rest for an hour. Dry it with a paper towel.
• Fry it on the skinny surface for 3-5 minutes without any oil, the skin will release enough fat. Turn it upside down, fry the other side as well.
• Put the fried duck breast into a baking tray, cover it with kitchen foil and bake it at very low temperature for 20 minutes.
• Meanwhile, put the orange or apricot cubes into the frying pan with the duck fat.
• Cut the duck breast into nice, thin slices and serve it with the fruity mixture on top.
• Obviously, pair it with the well chilled Barta Tokaji Szamorodni.