Hungarianwines.eu has organized Hungarian WebWineWriting competition for the 3rd time. The winners of the 6 categories (3 in English and 3 in Hungarian) could participate in our 4-day-trip in August. Julia Scavo DipWSET, the absolute winner of the contest, the 7th best sommelier of the world (ASI 2019) has written a comprehensive article about the trip – and certainly about the wines we have tasted. Read her detailed descriptions and do not forget: the 4th edition of the contest is to be announced in spring, 2021.

Fiáker Budapest 

Our Hungarian Wines study trip starts with Fiáker restaurant in Budapest and a lunch focused on the wines of the Monarchy. Actually, the whole concept is about wines from Monarchy as the map up from the bar shows it. Fiáker’s owner is found of Austrian wines and he first opened this venue focusing on this subject. However, it could sound difficult to only propose Austrian wines in the heart of Budapest, so he spread his selection to Hungary then to all the countries that were part of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy. The nowadays selection is extended to Süd-Tyrol (Italy), Croatia, Slovenia, Transylvania (Romania) and of course the two heads of the eagle – Hungary and Austria.

With the addition of Hungary on the Wine Spectator Restaurant Awards Program, Fiáker was among the two Hungarian restaurants awarded in 2020, and this also thanks to its 260- selection wine list which is both an original concept in its own and a real gem for good-value bottlings.

We started with a Badacsony Olaszrizling 2019 from Eliás showing typical varietal definition of green apple, pear and citrus, quite rich and mellow with freshness driven by bitter zests. Classic Smaragd Grüner Veltliner from Domäne Wachau – Ried Achleiten 2017 then followed, concentrated and exotic with notes of honey, spices and stone fruit, unctuous and dense held by phenolics that help getting a fresher feel.  To finish, Dveri Pax Sauvignon Blanc from Stajerskà Slovenjia 2018, producer that is also known for sparkling wines.  Very “Steiermark style”. These were diverse pairings we enjoyed with the roasted pork stuffed with foie gras and apple.

Adventure starts here as now we head to Bükk region! Follow us!

Gallay Wines

Evening in Miskolc – Bükk region which almost got extinct and that only its talented producers try to keep alive. Miskolc is one of Hungary largest cities, however it seems quiet, like most of the dormitory industrial towns. We arrived here after a summer rain that refreshed the heat and made Miskolc, or at least the part we visited feel greener. The grey sky however was the natural continuity of the concrete buildings built under Communism. 200 years ago Bükk was a famous wine region but after the phylloxera and Communism the organization changed pushing the industry and neglecting agriculture that went tremendously down. People almost forgot about the 2000 cellars carved under the vines.

Emigration, aged and exhausted vineyards with no youngster to take care off, the shadow of Eger to the West and mighty Tokaj to the East, these all contributed to the decline of this once famous region that used to spread on 18000 ha. Only 1750 ha are still counted, but less than 500 ha out of that are physically used. Most of the villages belonged to a two-fold classification with I and II classes but unlike the Tokaji classification their prestige was lost in time.

14 producers try to revive the region as mentioned above. Their goal is to erase the industrial image of the area and get it out of the twilight, highlight its original grape varieties and exceptional cellar network under the rhyolite tuff as well as focusing on respectful vine growing and winemaking to emphasis the terroir. The association is actually called “Terroir Bükk” and has a two level classification: “Classic Bükk” and “Terroir Bükk”, the latter being organically cultivated.

Borbély Roland – Gallay Pince https://www.gallaypince.com/ , one of the pioneers of the Association, officially started making wine in 2012 as a « garagiste » knowing that he had already vinified in the past in his father’s garage. Then he studied Oenology and launched the project. By 2012 the association Terroir Bükk was also formed with Roland one of the founder members. Its wines belong to two ranges: “Gallay” (name of his grandmother) and “Bistronautica”, and are sourced on 11 ha. Good to know, Roland worked as chief winemaker for Kovacs Nimrod Winery.

We tasted his wines on the historical Avas Hill that tops at 100m and used to be covered
with vines in the past. The souvenir of those times is still reflected by the impressive cellar and its white mould, now a museum rather than a working place. Avasi Cellarium offered us the perfect atmosphere to talk about the Bükk terroir.

Few words about the vine growing environment now. Soil is deep clayish in Bükk which could be considered as an advantage in warm years, but as Roland explained to us “it is difficult to stay on a sunny beach at 36°C degrees with the feet in cold water”. Roots stay cool, indeed. Slow ripening for some of the varieties depending on the root stock more or less adapted to this soil is one of the consequences too. Some grape varieties take advantage of it, other don’t.

1.      Blend of Bükk – Genus 2019 (Chardonnay, Olaszrizling and Zenit) tank fermented and kept on lees, stirred many times. Discreet, leesy, with delicate hints of apple and pear, the nose is stony, with some herbal notes. Dry, with moderate acidity, it has a dense mouthfeel with light phenolics that balance the generous touch. This dense character impacts the texture and make it feel unctuous. Quite long and promising.
2.      Gallay 2019 Kabar (Bouvier x Hárslevelü) this cross obtained in 1967, as resistant as it might be, only gives 7t/ha and most of it is found in Tokaj, but Roland told us about the existence of a producer growing it in Somlo. When it is getting too ripe, one can easily skip the harvest window.  Early ripening variety. Nose is discreet, flinty, with some apple, citrus, leafy glints and almonds. The palate is dry, leesy, rich, acidity is medium, held by phenolics, with more intense flavours of apple, citrus, some pepper and almonds, with salivating finish. Roland owns 1 ha of Kabar out the about 20ha globally thriving in Hungary.
3.      Nyékládháza 100% Zenit (Ezerjó x Bouvier cross obtained by Ferenc Király in 1951, sibling of Zengö and Zeusz) 2016 (barrel aged and barrel matured for 1 year). Pale lemon yellow, nose is clean and intense, with hazelnuts, almonds, apple and peach, buttery and nutty. Dry, with elevated acidity, lean, getting some phenolics, oak impacts both the flavours and the structure. It has elevated but digest alcohol and also some spices, nuts, almonds, long, lingering with spices. Very good. Within the “Super 12” last year by the Hungarian Wine Writers association.
4.      Gallay Blanc 2014 (Pinot Blanc and Zenit, first vintage 70%/ 30%). Barrel fermented and barrel aged. Different sizes and ages of barrels, « Trust » cooperage, from 5 different forests, Sopron oak and Mecsek as well as Zmplen. The wine is intense, nutty, creamy, buttery, notes of hazelnuts, with spices, biscuit aromas, honey, and apple. Dry with medium plus to elevated acidity, oak is present with phenolics, oaky spices and almonds, long nutty finish.
5.  Rosé 2019 100% Zweigelt The focus here is not making rosé, grapes are meant for red wines and this is a “saignée”. 1-2h soaking. Medium pink. Clean nose, with delicate cherry, sour cherry, cherry pit, some flowers, such as peony, with herbal aromatics, dry, medium acidity, with light tannins, alcohol medium, and palate shows a peppery touch and classic cherry, sour cherry, herbal finish. Medium plus finish.
6.    Bistronauta red 2015 100% Zweigelt 16 months in barrel. Light ruby colour. Crunchy cherry, sour cherry, flowers such as peony and violet, smoky, juicy, lean, alcohol is elevated but digest, with spicy feel, the acidity is medium, the body is medium with moderate tannins, fruit is extremely exuberant, cherry, sour cherry, herbal notes. Medium plus finish.
7.    Turan 2017 Deeply coloured, intensely scented: flowers, potpourri, Christmas cake, cloves, tonka fava, « Mon cherry » chocolate, oak spices and also some smoke, chocolate. Dry, medium acidity, ripe and rich, high alcohol, rich and generous, with medium tannins but quite dusty, like spices and chocolate, mould wine, Christmas cake. Long aromatic

A good range with surprising wines. Happy to have tasted Zenit, Kabar and Turan! We also enjoyed a traditional pörkölt slow cooked by Roland with pogacse, not to mention pickles, paprika, sour cream and other Hungarian goodies to warm up after visiting the fantastic but chilling cellar.

Tomorrow morning time to go to Tokaj. Follow us!

Barta 

Spectacular Tokaj on the Öreg Király Dülö Grand Cru vineyard of the famous village of Mád, going up at 343m and as steep as 66%. Mostly planted with “King” Furmint variety, there are also some Hárslevelü plantings. Other plots of Barta winery include some Sárgamuskotály and Köverszölö. They mostly use the T 85 clone (authorized since the 90s) with smaller bunches than the classic T 92 (authorized since 1973).  The soil here is a mix of rhyolite and red clay with iron oxides. As the lava burst the gas could not escape from the cooling rocks and gave specific blisters on the stones, known as “monkey brain”.

We experienced a great tasting of Barta wines in the vineyard, finishing with a 2013 Tokaji Eszencia. “Vinum regnum, rex vinorum”, indeed. Barta wines are both elegant and concentrated with the typically flinty smokiness. Depth, silky textures, never austere but firm with precise finish that makes one salivate and lingering flavours. Mastered oak maturing and a lot of sensibility led by the tremendous acidity we all know in the area. When it comes to the sweet wines, either Szamorodni or the Aszú they only make in 6 puttonyos version, not to mention the luscious Eszencia. Furmint is the only compound and has such a strong signature with incredible balance whatever the sweetness degree might be. Organic vineyards, some wines are Demeter certified and recently they also started getting into the sparkling area. One conclusion, just wow!

Vesztergombi Winery 

Traditional lunch on the Danube’s bank with Kadarka wine from Vesztergombi Winery in Szekszárd. Vesztergombi is one of the oldest producers in the area, their ancestors were mentioned as tasting judges or “hegybiro”, an important mission in the past. Their court of arms depicts a fox, as a symbol for the ability of their grapes to perfectly ripen on their plots, as foxes only enjoyed fully matured grapes. With 30 hectares they own an average size estate for the denomination. 20% white grapes (with Olaszrizling being the flagship and also most plated white grape in Szekszárd) and 80% reds, main colour of the denomination, with more Kadarka, Merlot and Syrah than any other fellow producers.

Vesztergombi also own 0,5 ha of Malbec thought to have a good potential in the area. The estate is not yet organically certified but experiments with innovative techniques and plans to become “more than organic” in the coming years. This secret project had already given some results beginning with last year. The soil in the area is mainly red clay, a kind of Terra rossa, but some plots also have loess deposits. The Kadarka perfectly adapts to the red soil, and Vesztergombi owns 30% of their plots planted with this capricious grape (the Turkish synonym “Gamza” actually means “capricious woman”).

This is a late-ripening grape, almost of the same period like Cabernet Sauvignon which explains its un-uneven ripening from one vintage to another and the fact that the region plants it at a 4% rate. Kadarka is considered to be an old grape variety and has many clones. Vesztergombi selected 5 clones from the 120 years old plots and replanted a new vine 10 years ago with these clonal material. They also experiment with clones from Balla Geza which have a thicker skin and smaller berries with aptitude for fuller wines.

If the year is not worthy, they never market the Kadarka. The past decade they only labelled 2017 and 2018, as best vintages. Both 2017 and 2018 have pale ruby colour, showing cherries, strawberries, with hints capsicum. Medium alcohol with elevated acidity and light body. Drink young but certainly 2 or 3 years cellaring should bring more silkiness to this wine. Very good pairing with Danube freshwater fish soup Baja style. The Baja style is slow cooked so that the fish frees isinglass from the bones and gives more consistency to the liquid. It is different from the Szegedi style, where fish is pressed and added to the liquid. The two regions fight for the patent of this delicacy same way Szekszárd and Eger both claim to be the historical home of Bull’s Blood.

1. Incognito 2019 Kékfrankos Blanc de Blancs

Pale lemon green colour with silvery tinges. The nose is clean, showing reductive technology and low temperature vinification character with notes of melon and crunchy Granny Smith apple complimented by aniseed. The palate is dry, with high acidity and some phenolics, a digest and refreshing wine bringing a touch of pleasant bitterness on the finish, reminding the grapefruit peel.

2. Pinot Noir 2017 Limited Edition almost whole berries with a very light crushing process and aging in old barrels.

Of a pale ruby colour, the wine shows a clean and medium intense nose, with notes of cherry, sour cherry, cherry pit as well as spices (nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves). The palate is dry with elevated acidity, moderate plus alcohol and medium tannins. It is smooth and silky, the wine is juicy with notes of red fruit, such as cherry and sour cherry with lots of spices lingering on the finish. 5-6 years of aging potential.

3. Kékfrankos 2015 12 months in 500l barrels.

The colour is deep ruby with purple hues. Clean, intense, with black cherries, red plums, spices such as pepper and herbal tones intermingling with the spiciness offered by the oak maturing ( nutmeg, cloves), as well as toast and coffee. Dry with elevated acidity, tannins are elevated, texture is silky, alcohol is moderate, but warming with spicy and juicy character. Fruit is intense showing: cherry, black cherry and Morello cherry. 7-8 years of aging potential.

4. Merlot 2015

Deep ruby, clear, with intense nose of ripe strawberries, plums, hints of vanilla and chocolate from the oak maturing. The wine is dry, with medium plus to quite elevated acidity, generous alcohol that helps wrapping the soft tannins, of a moderate plus level, fine, powdered, dusty like cocoa powder. The fruit is pronounced showing lots of strawberries, plums, spices such as cinnamon and other oaky tones, lingering on the persistent aftertaste. 5-6 years of aging potential, I like the salivating acidity for this Merlot as it balances its generous, velvety character.

5. Infinity cuvee 2016 – Cabernet Franc/ Merlot/ Cabernet Sauvignon

Deep ruby – purplish colour. The nose is clean, pronounced, with layers of ripe cherry, black cherry, creamy blackcurrants complimented by oaky spices such as cinnamon, with glints of toast and vanilla, a concentrated nose that somehow reminds something from Saint Emilion. The palate is dry with ripe attack, the mouthfeel is mellow and velvety, led by the rich alcohol level and bringing a seducing envelope for its elevated tannins. Acidity is still fresh and salivating, thanks to the contribution of the Cabernet Franc and the fruit is deep, intense, showing cherry, blackcurrants, toast and vanilla tones with chocolate lingering on the long finish. A very good wine showing aptitude for 8-10 years of aging.

Bock Winery – dinner and tasting

Dinner and tasting at József Bock’s Winery, in Villány. We were so warmly welcome in his Ermitage hotel, one of the top institutions in Hungary. Mr. József Bock is the forefather and president of the Villány producers’ association. Since 30 years, the southernmost Hungarian denomination demonstrates its uniqueness. Sub-Mediterranean climate with masses of warm air coming from the Adriatic, its limestone, lœss and clay slopes are protected by the Bakony, Mecseck and of course Villlány massifs from northern cold air, so that Villány becomes a country for reds. Few whites are produced, being reserved to the Siklós area mostly. It is here where altitudes range from 120 to 330m that the famous Villányi Franc was created as a speciality in its own. But Villány not only protects this speciality, as it happens in the other PDOs, their rigorous system being extended to many other interesting styles of wines. Bock family takes care of this heritage being the oldest attested winemaker family in the area with history getting back as far as the 17th century when German settlers came here. Their activity as viticulturists goes back to 1850. They resisted the Communist expropriation and deportations and now their 80ha vineyard is built on the tiny 2ha plot they still reminded in the 90s. They now bread 7 red varieties and 4 whites all typical to the area.

We enjoyed the Blanc de Blancs 100% Chardonnay Pezsgő as an appetitive, with a ripe character and herbal, résine scents, still fresh, then the Hárslevelű 2019 between tropical and refreshing characters with its smooth palate for the Foie gras and oignon confit. Further on a peppery Rosé 2019, blend of press and saignée from most of the winery’s red grapes, it was juicy and had a ripe exuberant red fruit with flowery notes.

The Syrah 2017 reminded us of Southern Rhône Valley, while the Villány Cuvée 2017 (blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon in Hungarian oak) was so intense with its pristine black fruit, concentrated spices, with all structural parameters being high but well blended and wrapped into a velvety texture. The flagship Cuvée of the estate. We felt the care for each detail, in the way Mr. Bock shared his passion with us to explain the denomination with precise information, in the style of the wines and also how they welcomed us including the kids with royal portions of Schnitzel and the estate’s delicious grape juice. Cheers!

Csányi Winery

Csányi Winery in Villány. Our last stop before our flight back in the afternoon. We followed the traces of Sigmund Teleki, famous Hungarian grafter and one of the creators of the 5BB and SO4 rootstocks. He owned the vineyard end of the 19th century and now the top brands bare his name. After a first part of the visit in the modern cellar at the edge of technology with all vats controlled by computer, then came the historical labyrinth of more than 1 km under the village of Villány, largest in all the South of the Pannonian Hungary.

And the tasting in the traditional tasting room. We started with the new « Redy » concept that appeared in 2017 within the Villány producers association for easy drinking reds with at least 50% Portuguiser, then an excellent Château range Kékfrankos sourced from the Ördög-arok hill, vivid, spiced with mastered oak impact and digest alcohol, varietal definition, together with its firm tannins, 3 Villányi Franc beginning from the blend of plots under the Chateau brand to the mighty Kopár, the super-premium « Tradició 1881 » 2015 vintage. From pristine fruit and excellent digestibility to a developing wine with lots of youth, highlighting precious wood, tobacco, cedar, noble spices complimenting black currant and Morello cherry.

An architectural wine upon high structural parameters with a lot of harmony. An un- released yet 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon from the Kövillá selection (Kövillá was the stony little house in the vine belonging to Teleki), interesting comparison with the Villányi Franc 2015 from the same plot, but such a baby with juvenile structure and intense fruit, oak spiciness, a backbone based upon a trio of high acidity, tannins and alcohol feel, all wrapped into a silky texture down to the long salivating cocoa finish. Before enjoying some bubbles, a Premium Cabernet Franc 2002.

As you might know, the Villányi Franc brand only exists from 2015, so before it only was a Premium. Developed, with tertiary, leafy forest floor and cep mushrooms, tobacco, coffee and Cocoa, with still very vivid fruit, the wine exposes a velvety palate, with young, harmonious structure and still 5-6 years to go. I wouldn’t have placed that wine as far as 2002 in a blind tasting! Bubbles before taking off, actually, Teleki’s cellar was well known for Pezsgö back in the times of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy. Now they produce a high technology rosé from Pinot Noir (already harvested yesterday for this vintage!) 2 years in the lees, few autolysis impact but lots of fruit and tonic character with tiny phenolics and juicy palate.

1. Teleki Villányi Redy 2019 13% abv. 60% Portuguiser, 20% Kékfrankos, 20% Blauburger, Kadarka stainless steel only, bottled in April this year.

Pale ruby, youthful nose with clean and intense fruit such as cherry, sour-cherry, herbal notes of rosemary and thyme, some spices. The wine is dry, with elevated acidity, offering crisp, tannins are soft, and the palate is digest, fresh with lots of fruit, pungent spices and herbal scents, aromatics that linger on the aftertaste. Drink young.

2. Teleki Selection Villány 2017 13,5% abv. A classic Kékfrankos aged in used Hungarian oak + 20% of 1 year barrels.

Medium ruby colour, the nose is fine and pronounced with notes of cherry, blueberry, mint and balsamic feel, also showing some pepper, few oak impact, with some cinnamon notes only. Dry, with high and vivid acidity, silky texture, and rich warming feel despite moderate alcohol. This enhances the spicy touch and wraps the firm tannins together with an envelope of fruit, spices and herbal sensations, rosemary lingering on the quite long aftertaste. A good to very good wine with 4-5 years potential and in any case an excellent value per money.

3. Château Teleki Villányi Merlot 2015 13,5% abv. 40% in new oak and 1^st plus 2^nd fill, 60% in big old casks for 18 months.

Typical varietal nose of plums, blueberries, cherry and strawberry with oak influence bringing some vanilla, toast. The wine is dry and ripe, with moderate to plus acidity, digest alcohol, elevated tannins that feel polished and enveloped into a juicy mouthfeel. With lots of fruits and spices, the wine is long with cinnamon finish. More than 4-5 years of supposed aging potential.

4. Château Teleki Villányi Franc 2017 14% abv. Premium level

Of a medium ruby colour, the nose is clean, with pure and intense cherry, sour cherry, blueberries complimented by herbal notes of capsicum and flowers such as freshly cut roses. Spices come along with pepper and liquorice mainly as well as some spices from the moderate oak impact. Dry, with elevated acidity, tannins are medium plus but firm, wrapped with the texture offered by the generous alcohol level as well as the ripe extract. The wine is still digest, with excellent harmony and interlacing warming spices with deep, concentrated fruit down to a long, salivating finish expressing herbal and flowery notes. Very good with 5-7 years of potential at least.

5. “Kővilla” Válogatás Villányi Franc 2015 13,5% abv. Premium level

As explained above, “Kövillá” is a plot selection (Válogatás) from the famous Kopár vineyard and its name come from Teleki’s small house that still exists in this vineyard.

Still deeply coloured, with clean, developing aromas and a hint of tertiary such as tobacco, mushrooms, graphite, the fruit comes out after breathing with plums, candied black fruits, cocoa and precious wood completing the whole. Dry, with high acidity, serious tannins with dusty grain, fine and gravely, reminding cocoa somehow. The texture is lean and silky with very digest and integrated alcohol. The structure is still very youthful by its freshness and tannic grip, but there is such a balance there, with even more fruit on the palate, slightly developing and lingering down to a long, juicy finish. 8-10 years to go, an excellent wine.

6. Teleki Tradíció 1881 Villányi Franc “Kopár” 2015 13,5% abv. Super Premium level

Medium ruby colour, developing nose with vanilla and toast together with oak spices and precious wood, Santali, cedar complimenting an intense fruit: cherry, blackcurrant. Ripe, solar, showing some cocoa. A dry wine with fresh and high acidity, very digest alcohol of a moderate level for the area with high, fine grained tannins that stay firm, structuring the wine. Layers of fruits and spices come along with herbal balsamic, some cedar and blond tobacco, the finish is long and savoury. 10-12 years plus of aging potential for this excellent wine.

7. Kövillá Válogatás Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 80% oaked in French and Hungarian barrels, 20% in big casks for 18 months

Of a deep ruby colour, the nose is clean, vibrant with typical, pronounced varietal definition. It need some air or time totally express its juvenile blackcurrant, Morello cherry, complimented by thyme, rosemary, fine oaky spices , with a hint of toast and cream. Dry, with high acidity, elevated alcohol that feels warm and generous, with spicy feeling, the tannins are high, tight, and extremely young but integrated with the extract and the density of the structure. Lots of black fruits, spices, balsamic herbal aromatics with long salivating, almost savoury finish bringing up some cocoa. More than 12 years of estimated aging potential.

8. Premium Cabernet Franc 2002.

Still very deep garnet colour. The nose is developed with some noble leafy like forest floor tertiary, then come cep mushroom and tobacco, together with chocolate, ground coffee. Fruit is still there, with candied cherries and blackberry jelly. Dry, velvety, with ripe attack, acidity is high, tannins are present and fine, polished. Elevated alcohol that smoothens the mouthfeel and stays digest more than warming. The wine is harmonious, with youthful structure and long, savoury finish. Outstanding, still 5-6 years to go at least.

9. Teleki Tradíció 1881 Pinot Noir Rosé Brut 2017 with 2 years on the lees and 7 g/l dosage

Pale pink colour, with pure nose, close to the fruit, driven by raspberry, cherry with few autolysis reminding fresh bread, complimented by spicy notes. Dry, with smooth attack, fine bubbles, it feels fresh and tonic held by some tiny phenolics. Fruit is bursting on the finish: raspberry and cherry.

Our voyage ends here. I am most grateful to the Hungarianwines (Ágnes Németh & Tamás Dobos) and all the producers and sponsors who made that possible! We lived 4 days in a dream during nowadays pandemics when people forgot to get together, time stopped for us and we got back to roots learning so much from this trip!