Food for thought for sommeliers

Hungary celebrates its birthday, the foundation of the state by our first king, I. István (Saint Stephen) on the 20th of August. Since 2011 a Cake of the Country has been announced every year. This year the winner is called Poppy Flower, and since we are wine nerds, we try to pair it with wines.
Kind István was canonized in 1083, 45 years after his death.

A not-so-simple fairy tale

Every year there are some criteria that the pastry chefs have to meet, this year the so called “superfood” ingredients had to be used, at least two of them. These valuable food types were the berry fruits, certain vegetables, some cereals and some nuts. The winner, Alfréd Kovács (Édes Vonal pastry shop, Vác) confectioner used ingredients from his childhood memories, flavours and aromas recalling hide and seek and other infant games in the woods. Creamy white chocolate, poppy seed, almond flour, tart blackcurrant and black sesame brittle are the main components.
From today, the cake is available in more than 500 cake shops throughout Hungary.

Poppy seed kills?

Of course, there is nothing wrong with poppy seed, it might make you sleepy in large quantity, but it is absolutely harmless, thus you can still find dishes with poppy seed in Hungary – with the approval of the European Union. We asked some Hungarian wine experts about pairing wine with the cake, and Dániel Ercsey wine writer responded this: “The best pairing is water, poppy seed kills any kind of wine.” Gábriel Nyulasi wine writer suggested a sparkling wine made of Olaszrizling and Rhine Riesling, it may work, Patrícia Mannheim thinks of a Blanc de Noir, possible, but a Pinot Noir rosé sparkling might have a better chance, as Bettina Kutasi suggested. Zoltán Lesti sommelier and winemaker is positive about pairing the cake it with wine, especially with red wine. As he says, he has tried it several times, his guests always loved it! Zsolt Váradi agrees, he recommends a Merlot (he mentions Lelovits, but we have not tasted that, this is why we suggest a great Heumann Merlot). Gábor Dudás reminds us that this cake does not focus on poppy seed, it is just one of the ingredients. Because of the rich white chocolate cream, he would prefer a liquor or a vermouth. “If it should be wine, I would think of a matured Tokaji Aszú or sweet or dry Tokaji Szamorodni.” Thanks for all the recommendations!

Heumann Merlot 2017, Villány

This Merlot has received 94 points and won the panel tasting in an important wine magazine of Hungary earlier this year. Debreceni Borozó has 2-4 print issues per year, and since it is distributed all over the country free of charge, it has a large readership and thus influential among the customers. The latest issue came out with a massive panel tasting section evaluating wines in different categories. The tasting of varietal wines made of Bordeaux grapes had the most samples – this is where Heumann Merlot 2017 reached the No1 position. “Dark ruby colour. Lovely, matured nose with black forest fruits, blackberry, ripe plum, chocolate, coffee. Dried leaves and spices. Full body with oily texture, integrated acidity, ripe tannins. Fruity, spicy, juicy. Very long finish and great ageing potential.”

More about Heumann Winery

Teleki Tradíció 1881 Pinot Noir Rosé Brut 2016, Villány 

The first bottle fermented sparkling wine of the Villány winery spent more than 20 months ageing on the lees. “Elegant, pale colour of peach with fine bubbles. Intense, complex nose with peach, orange and subtle yeast with some citrus notes. On the palate finely woven texture, firm structure, crystal clear flavours. Fresh, vibrant acidity makes the sparkling wine vivacious and refreshing, enhancing the fruity character. Ethereal, feather light with tiny, melting bubbles. Perfect harmony. Taste it slowly finding pleasure in every sip.”
The winery website is under construction due to its rebranding.

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Patricius Stilla Aurea Tokaiensis Sweet Szamorodni 2021, Tokaj

Szamorodni is a traditional style in Tokaj with using healthy and botrytised berries harvested together. This blend is made of 50% Zéta, 28% Muscat Blanc and 22% Furmint. After fermentation in stainless steel tank, the wine aged for 12 months in 220 L oak barrels. “The nose brings the aromas of the botrytized “Aszú” berries with lots of fruity notes, as mango, peach, quince, apricot. In the back the elegance of the barrel ageing also appears. On palate fine complexity, roundness and elegance can characterize the taste. At the end unique minerality completes the wine.” It has a residual sugar of 124.2 g/l balanced with 8.04 g/l acidity.
More about Patricius Winery