By Yan Biazruchka, Ukraine / Lithuania

This article was written for the 7th WebWineWriting contest. Hungarianwines.eu has no relation to the author, we only host the writing.

Hi, my name is Yan and I’m a sommelier. I have 6.5 years of experience in wine industry. Now I live and work in Vilnius, where I moved in 2022 after the war has been started. My article will not be a professional wine evaluation or organoleptic description, only the written form of my emotions and a real case that forced my love for Hungarian wine.

The most memorable encounter with Hungarian wine was before I even started working in the wine industry. It happened during a vacation trip with friends in 2015. We were passing through Budapest and couldn’t find our apartment booked for the night for a long time. The landlord didn’t get in touch and left only unclear instructions how to get inside. After spending almost two hours looking for the right door with the help of some locals, we solved the puzzle and were accommodated in the apartment.

It was evening, and we realized we needed a breather. We found a bar nearby, told the story to the bartender, and he said to us: “You know, guys, after such adventure you should try Hungarian wine, but not in the usual way. Winemakers will kill me if they find out, but the benchmark of Hungary is sweet Tokaji wine. I’ll make you a sparkling cocktail with it. Please don’t tell them”.

The bartender took out a small bottle from the fridge labelled Royal Tokaji with a gold-coloured wine inside, like 2009 vintage. I didn’t know at the time that this was one of the best Tokaj producers and had no idea of its value. It was amazingly yummy. Several factors coincided here at once: the moment, the atmosphere, the feeling of being a guest and my lack of expectations. Was it the most delicious cocktail I’ve ever had in my life? Definitely no, but it was the most vivid and memorable.

I recall every time my impressions and that moment just to compare. Do Hungarian wines continue to surprise me as that Tokaji sparkling cocktail? Yes, indeed!

And these are my top tasting moments, which I can describe as outstanding.

• 2017 Reserve Prestige from Chateau Dereszla tasted at Prowein 2024. This wine has amazing depth and freshness. Nice balance, citrus notes and green apple note with gentle undertones of bakery. I never expected Hungary produces wines like this!
• Sauska Rosé, the spectacular blend of Kékfrankos, Merlot and Syrah. I used to work with this wine in a restaurant and this is the sommelier’s weapon, no doubt. Universal with carpaccio, ceviche and salads dressed with citrus and savoury sauces and fish dishes.
• Diverse wines from a Hungarian embassy tasting in Vilnius, March 2023 – different regions and wine styles, new producers I have never seen before. Dry and oak aged Furmint, Welschriesling and Kékfrankos from Balaton, Pinot Noir from Etyek-Buda, Cabernet Franc from Villány and of course Tokaj. And that’s just a small part of it. Yeah, you could say that about any country. But to be honest, I have never associated Hungary with a wine country.

And that’s just a small part of it. Yeah, you could say that about any country. But to be honest, I have never associated Hungary with a wine country.

My idea and message are that random chance can plant a seed of interest in your mind for something new in a future. In my case, it is the thrill and wonder of discovering new horizons of Hungarian wines. Hope my experience will inspire you to follow the same way.