5 fabulous white wines to try at ProWein
Record number of Hungarian wineries in Düsseldorf
With 51 exhibitor booths Hungary will have true visibility at ProWein, and in Central Eastern Europe with this number of wineries Hungary leads – after Austria. There will so many great estates, so it would be hard to pick only a few “must-visit” wineries, thus we will pick more. Today we recommend 5 excellent white wines and tomorrow we will come back with 5 red wines, while next Monday we will draw your attention to 5 price-value champions. Don’t forget, your “must-visit” place is Hall 11!
“This is fun!” – Dubicz, Mátra, H11 / D20
Dubicz Winery and Vineyard can be found under the name Borpalota (the official company name). Irsai Olivér is an indigenous Hungarian aromatic grape variety, which gives superb examples in Hungary’s largest mountainous wine region called Mátra. Dubicz is a family winery with 115-year history and 100 hectares of own vineyard that focuses mainly on white wines. Irsai Olivér is easy drinking, cheerful, aromatic but not overwhelming. Tamlyn Currin of JancisRobinson.com has recently tasted Dubicz 1014 Irsai Olivér 2020 and gave it 16.50 scores! “Very pale, water-white colour. A sharp herbal nose that verges on catty and reminds me of Bacchus. But not remotely catty or Bacchus-like on the palate. Masses of grapefruit acidity, but it has lovely structure – crystalline rather than linear. Almost fizzing with a sherbet-dipped liveliness and energy. This is super-invigorating! It even has a touch of saltiness. Quinine. On a hot day, a glass of this served well-chilled is going to be pretty much as refreshing as an ice-cold Indian tonic. This is fun! Thirst-quenching.”
You can find more info about Irsai Olivér in our Grape Dictionary
“A whisper of wild flowers” – Tornai, Somló, H11 / D20
Tornai Winery is the leading estate of volcanic Somló wine region in terms of IWC Trophies and other accolades for their white wines. Let us quote Tamlyn Currin again, who gave as many as 18.50 points to Tornai Top Selection Grófi Juhfark 2019! “Really, really peachy nose, despite the wine being tasted too cold. And really spicy in the mouth. Intense apricot and peach fruit on the palate – stunning intensity, in fact. It feels as if it has an electric current running through it. Long, insistent, a wonderful twisting helix of oak spice, fruit, scalpel-fine acidity, stone dust. A whisper of wild flowers and orange peel on the finish. One of the most exciting Juhfarks I’ve tasted, and although it is unusually approachable already, this is going to develop beautifully over the next eight years, possibly more.“
“Fierce minerality” – Zsirai, Tokaj, H11 / D20
Look for Zsirai Winery under the name of Lát-Sat – again a company name. Zsirai is again a family winery run by two young sisters, Kata and Petra. Their headquarter is in the gem of Tokaj, the village of Mád, but they have soe vineyard in Somló and Villány as well. Tamlyn Currin tasted some of their wines and she was especially impressed by Zsirai Hárslevelű 2016 and gave her 17.50 points! “Pale gold and smelling very, very fresh. Lilies. A cool garden in an early summer morning. Spice in the mouth that isn’t on the nose, as well as a fierce minerality – almost TDN, almost like a core-drill of molten metal. Citrus, but clamped down with intensity and charred on the peel. Then, on the finish, a playful tease of talcum powder, and a floral grace note. A complex, driven wine of two halves that could possibly do with even more time in bottle. Needs a bit of salty cheese, I think.”
You can find more info about Hárslevelű in our Grape Dictionary
“Creamy and elegant” – Patricius, Tokaj, H11 / D20
Patricius “Furmint line-up” has always been attractive with Patricius Tokaji Furmint, organic Patricius Green Furmint, Patricius Furmint Selection (see below) and Patricius Brut méthode traditionelle sparkling wine made of 100% Furmint.
Recently a new brand has been born: the single vineyard Patricius Tokaji Sajgó Furmint 2019. Sajgó Vineyard is one of the richest terroirs in the wine region. The excellent clay soils on thick volcanic tuff are full of obsidian and rich in hummus. The roots of the nearly sixty-year-old (pre clone selection) Furmint plantation reach down deep, and the bunches that ripen here carry refined minerality. This characterful Furmint has all the beauty of its variety. Rounded acidity, balance, elegance and creaminess. A great wine with long ageing potential.
“Abundant in citrus” – Heumann, Villány, H11 / D20
Heumann Rhine Riesling collects several accolades in every vintage. Heumann Rhine Riesling 2019 was selected Wine of the Month last April by VinCE Magazine, the leading print wine magazine of Hungary. With 16.60 points this wine is the best of the new releases section. “Pale lemon colour. Intense, pronounced, charming nose typical of the variety. Full of citrus fruits. Vibrant acidity and firm structure. The palate is abundant in citrusy flavours as well.”
Plus this wine has a really charming price, too: only 2800 HUF, which is around 8 euros.Erhard Heumann said about Siklós, the commune where his Rhine Riesling plantations are situated: “Siklós towards the west has a slightly cooler climate but what in my opinion is the most important fact is that the thinner layer of loess on the lime stone rock, compared to Villány. That gives our wines (whites plus reds) a great minerality and a slightly higher acidity. Different terroir!”