Kadarka from “Kadarka Man”
Wine of the Weekend
Kadarka, the wine of an indigenous black grape used to give only easy to drink, light bodied, everyday wine, suitable for simple local meals. Things have changed: some winemakers have realized, that in outstanding vineyards, with extra attention, Kadarka has the potential to give complex, exciting wines. Kadarka Man has proved it again: Heimann & Sons Premium Kadarka 2019 from Porkoláb-völgy is far from being an everyday wine.
It is not a joke. If you try to find Zoltán Heimann Jr on Facebook, you will find him under the nickname Kadarka Man. With reason. After graduating from Geisenheim University, Germany, and completing his training in Montpellier and Udine, he joined the family estate full time, however, he has his own range within Heimann Family Estate, the so called Heimann & Sons, with only Kékfrankos and Kadarka wines. “With his brand new collection of wines, Zoltán Heimann Jr gets right down to the autochtonous expression of his homeland in the southern Hungarian town of Szekszárd. He has vinified sophisticated and expressive wines of origin from the most exciting vineyards, where delicate Kadarka and spicy Kékfrankos provide him with best material. The artistic label shows the path that Heimann & Fiai will thread: via the best wine bars from San Francisco to Kopenhagen.”
Indeed, Heimann & Sons wines are available in some of the best wine bars of the world thanks to their importers: USA: Danch&Granger Selections (California), Knit Wines (New York), Canada: Rezin (Quebec), Germany: K&U Weinhalle (Nürnberg), Naturgenuss GmbH, Weinhandlung Suff (Berlin) BorStore.de, Weingenuss aus Ungarn (online), Denmark: Løgismose, The Netherlands: Anfors-Imperial, Belgium: Roi de Rois, Russia: Lion Wine, Poland: NaWino
Soon to be sold out
Bortársaság, the Hungarian distributor of Heimann wines (cover photo is from Bortársaság) reported at the end of August, that thank to its popularity, only a few hundred bottles were left of Heimann Porkoláb-völgyi Kadarka 2019. The prestigious German Falstaff magazine praised the wine as well and gave it 92 scores: “Bright chimney red. Fine fruity scent of griottes. In addition, a hint of caramel and floral tones. In the mouth with supple fullness on the one hand, almost creamy, but on the other hand also with elegant lightness and a lot of juice. Harmonious acidity. In addition, an immensely fine tannin. Very original, delicately mineral playing wine. Falstaff Top Value”
The British Decanter magazine gave the wine almost the same score (p1) in its Hungarian supplement: “This wine has a very pale delicate ruby colour, but there is great fruit intensity on the nose. Bursting with sweet red berry fruits, almost like sugar-coated cherry and cranberry with over-ripe raspberry. The fruit aromas are uplifted by a fresh floral character, while there is a silky texture with focused acidity carrying the flavours through to the finish.”
On 20 November the first International Kadarka Day is celebrated. It is time to stock some Kadarka!