Panel tasting of international varieties rare in Hungary

Foreign buyers are looking for wines made of indigenous grapes like Furmint, Hárslevelű, Kékfrankos and Kadarka, and they might be shocked to see our attempts to make great wines of some “imported” varieties. But sometimes newcomers find a new home – just think of Cabernet Franc, the protagonist of a whole appellation in Villány. And why should our winemakers restrain themselves from experimenting with other grapes? The world of wine is too broad to restrict ourselves to just a few grapes.

Borsmenta online wine and gastronomical magazine held a panel tasting of wines made of grape varieties that are unusual and red in Hungary. The whole article is available here. The tasters are renowned experts led by Edit Szabó, editor-in-chief of Borsmenta. 17 wines were tasted, we present the two winners below the photo.

The Best White: Heimann Viognier 2023, Szekszárd

Viognier was first planted by late Tibor Gál in Eger, whose son with the same name continues running the estate (he makes three white wines using Viognier). There are 14.45 hectares under Viognier in Hungary, with 13.28 growing in 2025 (source: HNT).
Zoltán Heimann Jr about Viognier:
“The Viognier was planted in the Bati-kereszt vineyard by my parents. Since the region lacks a distinctive white variety, Viognier has become a Heimann specialty. It offers honeyed sweetness with aromas of white flowers and white-fleshed fruits. The 2023 vintage holds a special place in our hearts as it is our first organic Viognier. This is our only white wine.”
Borsmenta description:
” The grape was harvested by hand, soaked on the skin for 2-3 hours, then pressed and fermented in stainless steel tank at low temperature. Half of the wine matured in large, 5 HL cask for 6 months on the fine lees. The result is an elegant white wine with a full body and aromas of autumn fruits, apricots, and basil.”
More about Heimann Family Estate

The Best Red: Vesztergombi Malbec, Szekszárd

For some unknown reason Malbec variety is missing from the statistics of HNT. We have sent a question, as soon as we get answer, we will update this article. For sure there are producers growing the variety both in Villány and Szekszárd wine regions.
Csaba Vesztergombi about Malbec variety:
“In 2015, we planted half a hectare on the fabulous Kerékhegy. We used the first harvest to feed the deer, so unfortunately there was none left for winemaking. In 2018, we managed to preserve the grapes, but it was the harvest that made the vintage special, as my seventh-grade daughter and the entire 7B class did the work.”
Borsmenta description:
“The grapes were harvested in the Kerékhegy vineyard in Szekszárd, at an altitude of 260-290 meters above sea level, where the loess soil is rich in red clay and limestone. This is a Mediterranean-style wine that has been aged for a year in 300- and 500-liter oak barrels. Its aroma is characterized by raspberry and plum fruitiness, complemented by dark chocolate bitterness, cinnamon, clove spiciness, and a hint of smokiness. A soft, rich, and round Malbec that is very easy to enjoy.”

More about Vesztergombi Cellar