Tamlyn Currin about Hungarian red wines

We have quoted Tamlyn Currin’s thoughts several times and we cannot get enough. She is definitely one of the wittiest wine writers of our age with precise palate and a huge set of vocabulary. She has recently published two articles on JancisRobinson.com, one about white and one about red varieties. Tamlyn Currin reports significant development in Hungarian red wines (we will post about her white wine article later) due to less oak usage, less extraction, less intervention: “We’re seeing more spontaneous fermentation, much (much) less extraction, lower sulphite additions, less intervention all round. And the wines are so much better for it. It’s like washing the make-up off the face of a beautiful person and discovering the real glow and contours underneath.”

Top wines by variety

Tamlyn Currin grouped the recently tasted wines by the variety, let us mention the top ones:

Kékfrankos
– Heimann & Sons Baranya-völgy Kékfrankos 2019, Szekszárd (17.5 points)
– Heimann & Sons Szívem Baranya-völgy Kékfrankos 2019, Szekszárd (17.5 points)
– Heimann & Sons Bati Kereszt Kékfrankos 2019, Szekszárd (17.5 points)
– Heimann & Sons Kékfrankos 2019, Szekszárd (17 points)
– Kristinus Barrel Kékfrankos 2019. Balatonboglár (17 points)

Kadarka

– Heimann & Sons Porkoláb-völgy Kadarka 2020, Szekszárd (17.5 points)
– Heimann & Sons Kadarka 2020, Szekszárd (17 points)
– Vida Péter Bonsai Öregtőkés Kadarka 2019, Szekszárd (17 points)

Cabernet Franc

– Csányi Winery Chateau Teleki Villányi Franc 2017, Villány (17 points)
– Heumann La Trinità Villányi Franc 2017, Villány (17 points)

Blends

– Gere Tamás & Zsolt Aureus Cuvée 2012 (17 points)
– Vida Péter Bikavér 2017, Szekszárd (17 points)

International varieties

– Csányi Winery Kővilla Kopár Dűlő Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Villány (17 points)

“This is gorgeous!”

Heimann & Sons is definitely the winery with the most high scores, no wonder, Zoltán Heimann junior has put all his knowledge, experience and passion into the wines – instead of chemicals and viticultural interventions. About single vineyard Szívem Baranya-völgy Kékfrankos 2019 Tamlyn Currin wrote the following: “Orange-dipped wild red fruit. This is gorgeous! Almost fizzing with life. Tiny alpine strawberries, red cherry, pitanga berry, anise and caraway seed. Edgy, mouth-filling, floods the mouth with a cool freshness. The acidity has a gentle sweetness and a gentle urgency. The tannins are super-fine, almost transparent, but insistent. Different and very exciting.“

Read the whole article on JancisRobinson.com

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